How to buy a watch with Brynn Wallner of Dime Piece

Brynn: I am a journalist and founder of Dime Piece, a platform dedicated to women and watches. 

Subrina: When did you launch Dime Piece?

Brynn: Late summer of 2020.

Subrina: Is this a side gig? Are you a journalist full-time?

Brynn: The journalism evolved out of running Dime Piece. My career before this had nothing to do with watches. I moved to LA after college and got a job at a boutique creative agency that did influencer marketing and branded events. Then, I moved to work for the Verizon Media Group. Suddenly, I had this super corporate job, which I disliked because it wasn’t creative. 

I was an English major in college and always wanted to write, but I was intimidated by writing and having my work published. I got a job on the editorial team at Sotheby’s, producing content for their website to generate interest from a younger audience. I was editing these pieces about watches and got super intimate with the material. Because I worked at the auction, I saw the watches in person. I got to see rare pieces and was taken by them. I found myself doing side research. I started noticing people’s watches on the subway and in movies. 

Before this, I knew little about watches and never cared to own one. I was struck by the fact that the watch industry had missed me (as a representation of a consumer group). I was 29, working this great job, and none of my friends were talking about watches. I realized it was because [the industry] didn’t know how to speak to women or anyone who wasn’t their traditional idea of what a watch collector is. 

Sotheby’s let me go the day NY shut down for the pandemic because they had also been acquired. I managed to get down to Florida, where my mum and brother were at the time, and I managed to do nothing because I was lucky enough to get severance. So, I had money, wasn’t stressed, and decided to do nothing. I was so lucky to have that. I looked at my life, reprioritized, and figured out what I wanted to do. I decided on women and watches because I knew there was something there. 

I couldn’t make a website overnight, so I started Dime Piece with an Instagram. Almost immediately, I started gaining traction. It was simple; a typical post was a picture of Rihanna, and you could see the watch she was wearing on her wrist. To me, it wasn’t a groundbreaking idea. It was just celebrity “wrist-spotting” that had been around, and I didn’t know about it. I served it up in my voice, which included a lot of humor. I showed the whole look to give the watch context. You learn about the watches in the context of how people wear them. I felt “how to wear a watch” was missing in the conversation because the images were always super zoomed in. As an outsider, I needed other things around the watch to understand what I was looking at. There was no context! How should people know if the watch works for their wardrobe or lifestyle? I was turning 30 that year, and my dad asked me what I wanted because he felt it was a big birthday. I knew I wanted a watch but didn’t know which one. 

Subrina: There is something about 30th birthdays and watches. *laughs*

Brynn: I know, right? It just feels like adulthood.

Subrina: It’s time to get serious, so getting a watch is important.

Brynn: If I hadn’t worked at Sotheby’s, I wouldn’t have thought of a watch; I would have asked for something else, like a pair of shoes or a bag.  

Subrina: That’s an incredible journey. I love hearing about how people get started doing cool niche things. Very rarely is the path linear. What differences and similarities have you noticed between people who collect watches (connoisseurs) and people who simply wear watches as accessories for keeping time? 

Brynn: I think it’s connected to what I was saying earlier about context. Collectors are so focused on the actual watch, which seems obvious, but there is so much to take in. There’s design, fit, size, and everything that’s going on inside it. Many watches have movements powered by these tiny machines that work in tandem with your body. They’re spectacular and artisanally crafted. When looking at a watch, it’s not just how it looks. It’s a whole construction and a work of art. Collectors take in all those layers and the context of where each watch fits into the brand’s catalog. They care about when it was made, the materials, and why. Someone who doesn’t know about watches and just wants one as a timekeeper or accessory is focusing on surface-level aesthetics and how it meshes into their lifestyle — which are factors that “watch people,” aka collectors, may dismiss. For many people, it is a significant expense. The luxury ones are over $3000 and can quickly reach $10,000. I think it’s a luxury to be in that mindset where you don’t care about how the watch fits into your lifestyle. 

Subrina: Absolutely! As someone who knows about clothes and wants others to know about clothing, watches are the only category that I don’t know much about. However, I do not think you need to know every detail about watches to purchase a good one, even for the first time. I don’t think being a watch collector necessarily speaks to taste if you discard design aesthetics in the context of lifestyle. All it tells me is that you have time and a lot of money. When I see the collector wearing the watch, it can feel like the main event instead of working in tandem with the rest of the outfit. 

I genuinely feel like instead of Googling “What should I know before buying a watch?” people should ask themselves some questions (outside of budget restrictions) about function/lifestyle, design preferences, etc. There is so much emphasis on gathering useless information instead of simply figuring out what you like by asking the right questions. I found a lot of the information online utterly useless. The problem was that I didn’t know what I liked in a watch because it had never occurred to me until I turned 30 in 2022. So, what should people know about themselves before buying a watch? 

Brynn: People should know about their personal style and practical things like whether you are outdoorsy or on the go or always put together and take an Uber everywhere. Do you worry about messing up your nice things? Through this job, I have met a lot of rich people, and they don’t walk. They have nice shoes without worrying about damaging them because they move from one car to the next. 

When I was looking into buying my first watch, a year after I started Dime Piece, I considered that I walked everywhere, was always in a hurry, and traveled a lot. So, I wanted something easily replaceable. I landed on the Cartier Tank Pink Francaise in steel. It is stainless steel, so it’s very durable and sturdy but still elegant. It’s not a leather strap; it isn’t yellow gold, so it isn’t susceptible to scratching. 

I also wanted my first watch to be something significant in the grand scheme of the watch world. The Tank watch is so rooted in watch history. Princess Diana wore the yellow gold Tank; Andy Warhol wore the Tank Louis. It is such a significant watch, and that was my priority. I call it “the hot girl watch.” The Tank debuted in the 80s, and it was marketed to men. Keith Richards and  Pierce Brosnan wore them. Then, in the 90s, Gwyneth Paltrow, even Naomi Campbell, and Madonna popularized it amongst women. Then they relaunched in 2017. It was one of the first watches that I noticed that cool, hot women were wearing. Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa wore it. And when I was trying to buy my first watch, I wasn’t sure if I fit the image of the watch. People ask me if the Cartier Panther is too much of an it-girl watch, and I say no because it will transcend trends. 

You should ask yourself what is important to you. Do you want something historically significant or something that just looks good?

Subrina: Yeah, I think that’s why getting what you like, regardless of whether it is trendy or not, is the most important thing to consider. I avoid buying things that are too trendy and have had some regrets because I liked the item, and that’s all that matters. I write that people should focus on finding “good” items instead of finding their style because it is laborious, and many people will never do it. It’s lifelong and not a summer project. So, for those whose primary goal isn’t self-expression but instead having and wearing good clothes they like, how should they approach buying a watch?

Brynn: A luxury watch always feels like a cherry on top of an outfit. It elevates the look, and even if you’re lounging around in sweatpants, you look different as soon as you put on your nice watch. It’s a self-esteem booster. I don’t want to say that material goods are a way to boost your self-esteem, but if it’s something you paid for or a meaningful gift, or even if it has no sentiments, you have this beautifully crafted object, and you should feel good about that. It’s a special accessory. Men wear watches as an income signifier. There’s the image of the stereotypical finance guys comparing their watches, similar to how some women are about their engagement rings. 

[Above, I have linked an article from Another Magazine on Andy Warhol’s Cartier Tank watch. In it, he says, “I don’t wear a Tank watch to tell the time. Actually, I never even wind it. I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear!” I believe this is what Brynn is getting at here. Buy the watch you want to wear!]

Subrina: What are non-negotiable things that one should always consider outside of aesthetic and personal preference?

Brynn: You must ask yourself what sort of watch you want. I was talking about movements earlier, and some watches require winding.

Subrina: Is that a mechanical watch?

Brynn: Yes. Mechanical watches are either automatic or manual. An automatic works with you; it synergistically operates. If you wear it every day, it’ll keep running; if you don’t, it stops working, so you have to wind it when you want to wear it. You have to wind a manual one every day for it to work. Then there are the quartz watches, which are powered by quartz batteries. My Cartier Tank is quartz. Quartz is a more affordable solution because movement takes forever, and every part is tiny and intricate. Quartz watches are not high-maintenance; you don’t have to do much to keep them running except changing the battery and servicing them every few years. Many watch collectors would prefer mechanical watches. Most people don’t want that extra responsibility. The cost of making a mechanical or quartz-powered watch is significant and impacts people’s buying buy. It affected my decision to buy my Tank Francaise.

Subrina: Why is buying a watch so intimidating? I know my overwhelm doesn’t come from having much to look at; I feel it comes from knowing that the watch world is exclusive, and it feels like you should have extensive prior knowledge even before you enter a store. I don’t even feel that way buying a car. 

Brynn: That’s such a funny comparison because people get so serious about buying watches, and they never give the same consideration to something as important as a car. A lot of people have been excluded from this industry. If you look at who gets watches, sometimes they’re passed down by family heirlooms, or your family will teach you about them if you’re lucky. Or you are introduced to the world through marketing, and the marketing has always been very sexist and one-sided. If you’re a woman, here’s this dainty watch your husband can buy you. The industry is centuries old and based in Switzerland. I go there a lot now for press trips. I was in a tiny village where I learned that women couldn’t vote until 1991. So it gives you perspective.

Clothes are different because you can familiarize yourself with them before touching or wearing them, but watches are different. 

Subrina: Intellectualizing women’s clothing or fashion is generally looked down upon, but buying a watch has been complicated on purpose when you could just buy a watch because you like it and move on. We see watches as a “man’s thing,” and the process is deemed more sophisticated. I have to remember this when I start looking for myself. 

Brynn: The watch nerds have the worst style I have ever seen. 

Subrina: My next question concerns the watch target market and why you think the same heritage brands have dominated the market. The newer brands targeting young people can’t get any market share, so they disappear before we know about them. What have the heritage brands done that has made them mainstays, and is it as basic as monopoly and capitalism? 

Brynn: I don’t think the watch industry is simply affected by monopoly. Many of these brands have been making timepieces since the 1700s, and they’re building on products they’ve designed for centuries and a very specialized group of people. Only a handful of people are trained to build and work on these objects. And people don’t need watches like they used to. It’s hard to make it in a category where something isn’t a necessity. Before smartphones, many people wore Tag Heuer watches in the 90s. It’s a Swiss brand that made things under $1000; everybody wore them because they needed them. Timekeeping via a watch is obsolete, affecting how new brands break through the market.  

Some independent watchmakers are breaking through. They are not on the low end; they’re still thousands of dollars made by people who probably spent much time working at Rolex or Patek Philippe.

Subrina: Do a lot of young people ask you questions via DM about watches and what to buy? Do you know your demographic? What are they asking you?

Brynn: Yeah, I get the Gen Zs, but I also get the Baby Boomers, too, which I think is sick. I am in the process of redesigning my website right now and am cognizant of the age range of my audience. Whenever my designer shows me something, I ask to make the text bigger because middle-aged and older folks read it. Everyone is so obsessed with how to get the kids into something, and if you think about it, those aren’t the people with money.  Many people must buy watches on the secondary market because the inventory is low. You can walk into a Rolex store with $20,000 to spend, and you will not walk out with a watch because there is nothing to buy. There are waitlists and hoops to get a brand-new watch. Most people are confused about where even to go. 

Subrina: Yes! Is TheRealReal reputable? 

Brynn: Yes! But finding someone reputable or local is different than buying online. You need help figuring out tactile elements online, so try to buy it in person if possible. If you must buy online, pay attention to the return policies. When I bought a watch from Rebag — they had me do a video for them and paid me in store credit — I took it to an authorized Rolex retailer. I live in NYC, so I took mine to Watches, Switzerland. They’re an authorized Rolex retailer, sometimes with a watchmaker on site. They will inspect the watch and take it apart. So, you know the risk of online shopping for watches, but you have tools to ensure you’ve bought the right thing. 

Subrina: I would want to try on a watch that’s $3,000 before buying it. I wouldn’t want to buy one online. I can eyeball clothes, but I think it’s a feeling for a watch. How should people go about finding a place to try things on? Do those still exist? 

Brynn: You can find a place to try things on no matter where you live. You don’t have to feel pressure to buy anything. I was in Florida visiting my mum when I found a shop and asked to try on several watches. They’re used to those customers because it’s such a high-value item. They usually don’t have the inventory even if you want to buy. I also asked to try on the watches of everyone I was around to see how things looked on me. Everyone was so excited to share and tell you about their watches. I landed on the Tank Francaise because my mum’s friend was visiting and she had it on. I had seen it online and thought it was cold, sterile, and professional, but it looked so good on her. She let me wear it all day, and I changed my mind. Don’t ask strangers. But trying it on is so important; it’s such a tactile object. 

Subrina: I saw that you collaborated with another watch seller to help someone find a watch, and I was curious about what that entails. Are you part of helping them find a watch and customizing it? 

Brynn: So I work with my friend Allen Bedwell, a vintage antiques and watch dealer. He does the sourcing and authenticating, and I bring the clients and advise people on some history and give the watch context. And in that sense, I’m doing some styling, but it’s very specific. I make the watch relatable for them. All that inventory is now at Dover Street Market. 

Subrina: So where should people go for watches under $1500 that are still well-made and fashionable? I swear to god if I see one more Apple Watch!

Brynn: You can rely on the old school department stores like Bloomingdale and Macy’s. They have more fashionable watches/ Missoni makes watches, and Ferragamo makes watches. Go to their websites and filter by price. TheRealReal has some more affordable pieces. One of my favorite watches ever is the Hermes Kelly watch. It’s like this leather strap and has the Kelly lock. Last year, it was $600, and I think it’s such a cool watch. It has the Hermes design language, and it’s impractical because it’s a lock with a watch on it. It makes no sense, and I love it. You can find gems like that when you look at secondhand consignment. You must ask yourself if you want a fashion watch or a capital-“W” watch. If you have a limited budget, look for a fashion watch and find one made with stainless steel because it won’t chip away. Don’t go for the gold-plated ones. You don’t want to spend $800 on a fashion watch because you’re buying into the label; the label is kind of irrelevant. Find one made of good material; know you’ll have to dig. 

Subrina: What are your top 5 favorite watches? (I will email her for answers. And which celebrity’s watch collection have you noticed and admired? I feel like Rihanna is on the list, right?

Brynn: Yep! You took the words right out of my mouth. Rihanna was one of the ones that kicked off for doing Dime Piece. Then there’s Tyler, The Creator. I wondered why men weren’t wearing watches with smaller faces. You have Harry Styles wearing pearl necklaces and Jacob Elordi and his Bottega bags, and they’re wearing more femme watches. As the thought was brewing, I noticed Tyler’s wrist, and he was wearing this cool 50s Cartier with a pink strap. His taste across the board is impeccable, and he brings that to his watch collections. He has changed the context of how things can be worn because he’s so stylish.

Bad Bunny is another amazing collector. He wore a vintage Patek Phillippe ladies’ watch to a courtside laker’s game. He wore it so casually and took it out of the context of the original watch.

Subrina: There’s a watch I want your opinion on. My friend thinks it is horrid and overly architectural. I am intrigued by it and want to try it on. It’s the Van Cleef Cadena.

Brynn: Omg, that’s one of my all-time favorite watches. I can’t believe you brought it up because it never comes up. It’s kind of Georg Jensen-esque. 

Subrina: Yeah, I think that’s why I like it. I love an architectural bracelet watch.

Brynn: It’s a very beautiful design. It’s called a driver’s watch because if your hands are on the steering wheel, you don’t have to turn your left hand to see the time. Many driving watches tend to be so masculine, and this one is delicate and elegant. 

Subrina: I like the leather strap ones, although they look studious.